All lawyers should be placed on an iceberg and towed into a very warm sea that's chock full of sharks.... except that the sharks probably wouldn't touch them out of professional courtesy :-(
The procedure will be to statically noise test all bikes and issue "I'm just a quiet guy" stickers. No "quiet guy" sticker - no tracktime.
The noise limit for Cadwell Park is set at 105dB (note: other MSV tracks have different, often lower, limits).
I'm also told that there may well be drive-by monitoring whilst sessions are in progress. If your machine has suddenly become noisier than it should, you'll be hauled off the circuit, told to go fix it and represent your machine for another static noise test.
Please be aware: you only get one attempt to silence your bike after failing a drive-by test. If you fail this second noise test then it's game over and you're off home.
To quote the Manager@Cadwell directly:
The location of the static noise testing area shall be adjacent to the
scrutineering bay, next to the shower block. This location will be
clearly marked. Testing shall commence from 07:30, allowing a full hour
before the drivers/riders briefing starts at 08:30. Testing shall then
cease until after the briefing has finished.
Vehicles shall be permitted to complete the initial 3 sighting laps without having been statically noise tested, however they will NOT be allowed to remain on circuit after these initial laps and must return to the designated area for noise testing.
FYI, the relevant section from the ACU 2007 guidelines WRT engine speed (page 243) sayeth:
3. The noise test will be conducted with the microphone placed at 50cm from
the exhaust pipe at an angle of 45° measured from the center-line of
the exhaust end and at the height of the exhaust pipe, but at least 20cm
above the ground. If this is not possible, the measurement can be taken
at 45° upwards.
6. ...the noise test wil be conducted at a fixed RPM....
It then shows the following test RPM table for Sports Production engines.
|1 Cylinder||2 Cylinder||3 Cylinder||4 Cylinder||250cc (4stroke)||5,500rpm||8,500rpm||400cc (4stroke)||5,000rpm||6,500rpm||7,000rpm||8,000rpm||600cc (4stroke)||5,000rpm||5,500rpm||6,500rpm||7,000rpm||750cc (4stroke)||5,000rpm||5,500rpm||6,500rpm||7,000rpm||over 750cc (4stroke)||4,500rpm||5,000rpm||5,000rpm||5,500rpm|
For engines that don't fall into the above categories (eg 6 cylinder four strokes) there's a table in the ACU handbook on page 282 about calculating the mean piston speed (13 m/sec for 2 smokes and 11 m/sec for 4 strokes) and thereby the testing revs. NOTE: you will need to know the stroke of your engine if it doesn't fall into the categories shown in the above table.
For example, a Kawasaki 750cc H2 two smoke triple has a stroke of 63mm and reference to this table produces a testing RPM of 6,190rpm.
If your engine doesn't appear in the above table then I most strongly suggest that you a) determine the stroke of your engine and the testing RPM from the ACU handbook and b) bring along evidence of your engine's stroke.
Anyway.... before it got all noisy, I was on about scruting....
The activity previously known as 'scrutineering' has been renamed 'safety checks' because, I'm lead to understand, the term 'scrutineering' might imply a 'race' standard of check instead of a 'best endeavours'-basic-once-over of a mates bike; which is what we aim to do for everyones benefit. Lord give me strength.
The Ixies that act as 'scruts' (and I used the term merely as a more convenient form than "Basic Motorcycle Safety Checkers who do not pretend to be more mechanically capable than the average bloke in the street and most certainly can't be held responsible should they fail to spot something wrong with your bike 'cos it's your responsibility to ensure that your machine is suitable") are not qualified mechanics and should not be considered as such. They can and will, do no more than look over your bike and try to spot any blindingly obvious problems but they do this without any committment or guarentee whatsoever.
This is really no more of a safety check than you are advised to do by your motorcycle owners handbook each time you go to ride your bike.
The basic safety of your machine is your responsibility and you should not be relying on an Ixie scrut to spot any problems. Having said that, the Ixie scruts have found at least one bike every year that is in need of some attention; so we still think the basic safety checks are worthwhile even if every other trackday organiser has abandoned the idea despite the fact that such checks are required in the MSV contract.
So, wherever you see the term 'scrutineering' on these pages please don't take it to mean anything more than it is.
We now return you to your scheduled program. Ruffle.
Apart from actually making sure your bike's up to scratch, the most important thing is to actually give us scruts time to get through everyones machines. If at all possible, Purleeeze try and get to the scruting session at Cadwell and (probably) the Kings Head on the afternoon/evening of the 13th (or the evening of the 14th if you're only coming for the Friday). If everyone expects to get scruted on the morning of the trackday we just won't get through all the bikes in time.
Anyway; here's a basic list of stuff you should check before presenting your bike for scrutineering. I'm assuming a basic level of knowledge (like, you do know what a brake pad is, don't you?) but if there's anything you don't know we'll find a nearby Ixie expert to help you out.
Please run through this list and give your bike a check over -- we really do not want to keep anyone away from the track because of some forgotten maintenance point!
If your bike has a recent MOT from a reputable shop then you'll likely sail through scrutineering without problems. That's the kind of standard we're aiming for, just basic safety and not fully lockwired racing stuff.
GLASS: To conform to the rules of the Cadwell management, you must tape over the lights and any other glass or plastic parts that could shatter and throw sharp pieces around. We recommend, but don't insist, that you remove your mirrors. If you leave them on they must be taped over. Note: We suggest that you leave your lights off whilst they're taped up as the tape's glue goes all gungy and 'orrible and becomes hard to remove.
If you've lights that can't be switched off then I suggest disconnecting the bulbs or pulling the fuse as the heat from a headlight will melt lenses or make tape into the stickiest thing known to man.
WRT plastic lenses, we still ask that they be taped as it's unreasonable to expect a scrut to tell the difference from close up or anyone else to spot the difference as you're rolling onto the track (how do we know you've not just forgotten to tape your lights?).
STANDS: If you're quick enough to risk scraping your centre stand on the deck then take it off! This can be a fair sized job on a modern, faired bike and so it's probably not something you can do in ten minutes at the track. Tip; get a bunch of coins and jam them in between the loops of the spring before you take it off -- that way you won't have to stretch it to get it back on again. If the springs on your main or side stand are loose and floppy you'll have to fix the stand in the raised position with lock wire or tie wraps.
BRAKE PADS: A new brake pad will have one or two grooves cut into it; if the material has worn away to the extent that you don't have grooves any more, the pad's knackered. Replace them as a set; if one's gone the others won't be far behind. Check the rear too; the "but I never use the rear brake" excuse won't work.
If your brake pads are well worn, be prepared to 'fail' scruting as you'll be using the brakes more heavily than on the road and that last couple of millimeters will soon get used up.... and you don't want to discover you're down to the metal whilst hurtling towards Park Corner.
In general; If the bike can be pushed along with either the front or rear brake applied that's a fail. If either brake binds or sticks on that's a fail.
HYDRAULIC FLUIDS: Hydraulic fluid should be filled up to the relevant mark in the reservoir and should be clean and newish. No brown slimy spoodge, puh-leeze!
CABLES: Cables: should not be snagged or frayed, should be properly routed, and should not break when a large scrutineer gives them a good heave.
STEERING HEAD BEARINGS: These are the bearings that let your handlebars turn (hopefully) smoothly from side to side. Check them by standing beside the bike, holding the front brake on and putting your finger across the join between the frame and part of the steering that turns and then rock the bike back & forwards. If you feel the least movement in the bearing, even the tiniest 'click' then it could be your bearings are on the way out.
If you have taper roller bearings you should check the play; maybe they've worked a bit slack, but if in doubt replace 'em
WHEEL BEARINGS: You can check your wheel bearings by putting the bike on the centre stand (or a paddock stand) and balancing it so that the relevant wheel is off the ground, grabbing the tyre at the top and bottom and then rocking the wheel to & fro. If the bearings are worn you'll feel a slight click as you rock the wheel.
If you have floating discs this becomes very tricky! The discs will make more clicking and clanging than a badly worn bearing so it can be difficult to spot a bearing on the way out in this situation.
Put the bike on the stand so that the back wheel is off the ground, grab the back end of the swing arm and pull it from side to side. Again, you'll feel any play in the bearings as a slight clicking. Some bikes have taper rollers in the swing arm and these you can adjust, but if you suspect worn bearings you should replace them.
CHAIN: You should adjust and lubricate your chain before you come up to Cadwell. Please check for "tight spots" (rotate the back wheel and check the chain tension in several places) and don't just wind up the adjusters and ride off.
Overly tight chains are a potentially serious problem at Cadwell as the 'jump' over the mountain (or the landing to be more precise) puts a huge amount of stress on a tight chain (each year in the BSB round there's normally someone that falls foul of this and goes out with a snapped chain).
The chain should not be so worn that you can pull it away from the sprocket by any significant amount and the sprockets should not be hooked. Teeth missing from a sprocket or a chain dragging on the deck mean an instant fail!
OIL LEAKS: As far as scrutineering goes, we want to see that there are no major oil leaks. A slight mist or weep at a gasket is OK but if it's dripping lube onto the tarmac then we'll stop you going out if only to prevent a case of manslaughter when someone skids on your spilt oil. The crankcase breather tube should be routed either to the airbox or a catch bottle.
LOCKWIRING: Road bikes do not need to be lockwired, but the rider should check that bits that racey people do lockwire are secure. Sump plugs and oil fillers in particular. Race bikes must be lockwired to ACU standards, although we'll be flexible about anything that isn't holding back the golden slippery stuff!! Regularly track day'ed bikes which arrive on a trailer, we STRONGLY recommend that these have the sump plugs and oil fillers lockwired.
CLIPONS: If you have clip-on handlebars, or 'Jota' style bars, please check the clearance at full lock beween the bars and the tank. We have seen issues with potentially trapped thumbs in previous years and whilst thumbs are cheaper than decent lock stops, replacements can be hard to obtain.
LOOSE BITS: Basically we want to see that nothing's going to drop off and crown the rider following you. In particular exhausts should be securely fitted, there should be no loose fairing panels and such. Any DIY attempts a making your own slicks by riding 30,000 miles on a set of HiSports will be treated with the contempt that deserves!
If you have any questions then ask on Ixion.
Just to reiterate; we're not looking for anything more than a reasonably maintained bike so don't let the above put you off. If your bike's safe to ride to the circuit, it'll be perfectly good enough to ride on it.
A few people ran foul of a new camera mounting rule@Cadwell in 2009 so here's what is and is not acceptable.
Apparently, tank and helmet mounted cameras of any kind are now verboten as is anything using suckers as a mounting system. So cameras must be bolted on and they must not be bolted onto the tank or filler cap or helmet.
You are STRONGLY advised to tether your camera to the bike so that should it decided to go walkabout it doesn't end up twatting a following rider in the face.
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